We shared the afternoon with 82-year-old Mick Jagger presiding over one of the most dramatic sporting events most of us have ever watched. I generally don’t pay much attention to what is happening in the Conference Room except to know when the crowd is becoming restless for nourishment.

There was a distinctly generational vibe to the afternoon. Ancient—but still rolling—Stones looked down from the television coverage while some of the finest international athletes of their era flashed across the pitch, including that fellow Messi, who many insist is the greatest footballer in history.

So it was Archies 2, Brits 1—and England was done.

That sets up Sunday’s final between Spain and Argentina, another festival of ancient national rivalries. And another in the endless series of celebrations!

The Boys don’t pretend to understand all the rules of soccer, which somehow makes it even more entertaining.

For me, it meant I had nearly exhausted my supply of ideas for feeding the watch team. We have worked our way through beef, pork, chicken, paella, spaghetti pies, casseroles and just about everything else the Galley could devise to keep morale high.

The Galley deserved a break.

So I asked Miles if we could combine a sports column with a restaurant review.

Storms were forecast for later in the afternoon beneath another sweltering Virginia sky, and I suggested we finally give our old Arlington favorite, Ruthie’s All-Day, a proper review now that they have opened a new location just up Route 7 in Fairfax.

Truth be told, we understand restaurants far better than we understand soccer.

Both involve a great deal of motion. The match featured several near-brawls, plenty of players sprawled dramatically across the pitch after apparently catastrophic collisions, and a full range of theatrical flourishes. None of that was in evidence at the cheerful new restaurant.

They’re still settling into the new location after opening in April, working through the inevitable staffing adjustments, but the food remains outstanding—and they deliver.

That is how I managed to feed the Conference Room while England held the early lead, only to watch the mood shift as Mr. Messi and the Argentines scored twice, sending the room into something approaching bedlam.

For the Boomers, the match stirred older memories.

They remember when Argentines and Britons faced one another over the Falkland Islands instead of on a football field. Three members of our crew were professionally involved in watching both navies during that conflict, and the name General Belgrano still carries significance around the table.

Section Leader Miles conducted one of his informal surveys of experience across the generations.

The Boomers have lived through four or five wars.

The Zoomers came of age after September 11.

The interns are experiencing their first major international crisis with equal parts excitement and nervous energy.

Which was another excellent reason to order the big delivery from Ruthie’s.

I had already sampled a couple of lunches there, but yesterday was the real test—feeding a dozen hungry people while the roar from the Conference Room rose and fell with every attack.

Ruthie’s has long emphasized locally sourced ingredients prepared over its custom-built wood-burning hearth. We have been regular customers since the center of gravity for Socotra House was still the Pentagon and Capitol Hill.

The new Fairfax location has retained everything we liked about the original.

The cornbread arrived warm, courtesy of Ahmad and Uber, with a crisp crust and tender interior. The brisket offered just enough smoke, plenty of moisture, and rich flavor. The beans and greens were excellent. Oversized biscuits, poached eggs, deviled eggs, side salads, and a generous assortment of Southern favorites easily satisfied about a dozen people.

The entire order—including a few beverages—came to just under $500.

Every dish complemented the next, making the meal the perfect counterpoint to all the excitement unfolding on television.

It was a happy day indeed, and I am going to get the Interns to clean it all up!

Ruthie’s All-Day
Fairfax

11951 Grand Commons Avenue
Fairfax, VA 22030
(571) 652-5550
Ruthie’s All-Day brings Southern comfort cooking straight to your table—fluffy biscuits, slow-smoked barbecue, and all the fixings that make people feel right at home. Whether it’s a family gathering, business luncheon, or wedding celebration, Ruthie’s serves generous portions with genuine hospitality and the kind of cooking that tastes homemade without the fuss.

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